Key takeaways
- Never use a jack as the sole support for a trailer while working underneath it. Use appropriately rated jack stands or blocks and follow the trailer manual.
- Do not exceed the rated capacity. Jack ratings are about static lifting, not about towing loads.
- Electric jacks need a 12-volt power source and correct fuse or breaker sizing. If you are unsure about wiring, have a qualified installer or electrician do it.
- Chock the trailer wheels before unhitching and while lifting.
- Lubricate screws and bearings per the maker’s guidance. Rinse after salt exposure.
- Replace a jack that shows bending, cracked welds or stripped gears rather than attempting a field repair on load-bearing parts.
For a travel trailer or camper, an electric tongue jack such as the Husky 87641 or the Husky Brute suits owners who want push-button lifting and fewer cranking sessions, while a manual top-wind drop-leg jack suits utility, cargo and boat trailer owners who want a simple, serviceable part with a lower budget tier. Gooseneck and heavy equipment trailers call for a high-capacity drop-leg jack. The deciding factors are static capacity versus tongue weight, mounting style, and how much travel you need.
Our top picks
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Trailer Jacks at a Glance
| Jack type | Best for | Key stated traits | Limits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Husky 87641 electric | Travel trailers and campers | Rated by reviewers at 4,500 pounds lift; alloy steel housing | Remote can be temperamental; fairly noisy |
| Husky Brute / Super Brute electric | Large campers, weight-distribution hitches | Super Brute listed at 5,000 pounds with remote and LED light | Needs a 12-volt supply and wiring |
| Husky 89014 manual top-wind | Light to mid-size trailers | 2,000 pound rating; easy to service | Not sealed; needs more lubrication in wet climates |
| Fulton F2 (swivel or bolt-on) | Boat, utility and cargo trailers | Aluminum alloy construction; wide wheel | Lighter duty than camper-class jacks |
| Drop-leg gooseneck jacks | Equipment and livestock trailers | High static ratings, quick leg extension | Heavy; requires correct mounting |
How to Choose a Trailer Jack
Match capacity to tongue weight, not gross weight
A common rule from buyer guides is to size the jack to the trailer’s actual tongue weight, not the gross trailer weight. Tongue weight is usually stated on the trailer’s data plate or in the manual. Pick a jack whose rated capacity exceeds tongue weight with a margin, since loaded gear, water and propane can shift it. If the number is unknown, have it measured at a scale or ask the trailer maker before purchasing.
Manual versus electric
Manual jacks have fewer parts to fail, are cheaper, and are easy to repair. Electric jacks lift with a button and are popular with owners of heavier campers, tired shoulders or limited mobility. Reviewers of electric models mention trade-offs: motor noise, a need for wiring to the battery or tow vehicle, and in some cases remote control reliability. A manual crank fallback is a feature worth looking for.
Drop-leg versus standard lift
A drop-leg jack lets you extend the inner leg quickly near the ground and then use the screw drive for fine height. Guides recommend drop-legs for heavy trailers, where a long screw lift would require many turns. For goosenecks, drop-leg jacks with high static capacities (some are rated up to 12,000 pounds) are standard.
Mounting style and bolt pattern
Jacks mount in several ways: bolt-on to the tongue, weld-on, swivel mount, or side-wind on an A-frame. Measure the tongue or frame and compare with the maker’s mounting dimensions. Mounting hardware should match the stated bolt size, and mounting plates may need reinforcement on thin tubes. If the jack must swing out of the way for ground clearance, a swivel or swing-back model is a better fit.
Wheel versus pad foot
A wheel is useful for moving a trailer by hand on hard surfaces. A pad or plate foot spreads load on soft ground. Some owners use a jack stand block or a pad under a wheeled jack on gravel or grass.
Top Picks by Trailer Type
Travel trailers and campers: Husky electric jacks
The Husky 87641 is described by The Camping Nerd as an electric jack with a 4,500 pound lift capacity and an alloy steel housing, with the remote being temperamental and the unit fairly noisy. Camp Addict, in an older article, ranks Husky electric jacks highly for their ball-screw design, which the site says is more efficient and draws less power. The Husky Brute is picked by Parked in Paradise as the heavy-duty choice for large campers and weight-distribution hitches, and the Super Brute is listed at 5,000 pounds with a remote and LED lighting.
Light to mid-size trailers: manual top-wind
The Husky 89014 is a 2,000 pound class top-wind jack that reviewers describe as easy to service with inexpensive parts, though its gearbox is not sealed and needs more frequent lubrication in wet climates. It suits small campers, enclosed cargo trailers and similar loads where weight stays well within the rating.
Boat, cargo and utility trailers: Fulton drop-leg or swing-back
Several guides point utility, cargo and boat trailer owners to drop-leg or swing-back jacks from Fulton or Dutton-Lainson. The Fulton F2 is noted for its wide wheel and aluminum alloy build, which suits wet launch ramps because aluminum does not rust through like steel. Rinse the jack after salt-water use and follow the maker’s lubrication guidance.
Gooseneck and equipment trailers: heavy drop-leg
For gooseneck trailers hauling equipment or livestock, guides recommend a drop-leg jack with a static capacity in the 12,000 pound class. These jacks typically mount in pairs and are best installed according to the trailer builder’s instructions.
Pick X If… Decision Table
| If you have… | Pick | Why |
|---|---|---|
| A mid to large travel trailer | Husky electric jack | Push-button lift with higher rated capacity |
| Limited budget and a light trailer | Manual top-wind jack | Simple, repairable, low budget tier |
| A boat trailer | Fulton drop-leg or F2 | Aluminum construction, wide wheel |
| A gooseneck | High-capacity drop-leg | Fast leg travel and high static rating |
| A trailer parked on soft ground | Pad foot or add a jack pad | Spreads load |
| Difficulty cranking | Electric with manual override | Less effort with a fallback |
Budget Tiers
The budget tier includes basic manual top-wind jacks and light bolt-on units for small utility trailers. Mid-range money buys sturdier drop-legs and entry electric jacks. The premium tier covers heavy electric jacks with remote controls, LED lights and higher rated capacities, plus high-capacity gooseneck pairs.
Fit, Wiring and Safety Notes
- Never use a jack as the sole support for a trailer while working underneath it. Use appropriately rated jack stands or blocks and follow the trailer manual.
- Do not exceed the rated capacity. Jack ratings are about static lifting, not about towing loads.
- Electric jacks need a 12-volt power source and correct fuse or breaker sizing. If you are unsure about wiring, have a qualified installer or electrician do it.
- Chock the trailer wheels before unhitching and while lifting.
- Lubricate screws and bearings per the maker’s guidance. Rinse after salt exposure.
- Replace a jack that shows bending, cracked welds or stripped gears rather than attempting a field repair on load-bearing parts.
Alternatives to Consider
If the trailer is small and light, a cinder block and wheel chocks may not suffice; a tongue-mounted caster wheel (a jockey wheel) is a cheaper lift and move aid for boat or utility trailers. A cordless drill adapter for a manual crank is a popular lower-cost compromise for owners who want less effort without wiring, though makers may caution against using impact drivers, so read the manual. Stabilizer or leveling jacks at the corners handle stability once parked, but they are not a replacement for a tongue jack.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most frequent error is buying by trailer weight instead of tongue weight. A second is ignoring how the jack mounts: a bolt-on jack that does not match the tongue tube width or bolt spacing will need adapter plates, and those add a potential weak point. A third is skipping lubrication. Screw jacks rely on grease between the screw and nut, and a dry jack wears quickly, especially if it is exposed to road spray. Owners of electric jacks also sometimes forget the battery: a trailer left unplugged for months can leave the jack without power at the moment it is needed, so keep the supply charged or carry a manual crank. Finally, do not leave the jack extended during towing; retract it fully and secure any swing-back or pin per the maker’s instructions so it does not drag or catch on road debris.
Matching the jack to the hitch type
Bumper-pull trailers with a coupler use a tongue jack mounted on the A-frame or tongue tube. Fifth-wheel trailers use landing gear, which is a different product with paired legs and a cross-shaft, and it should be bought from the trailer maker’s parts list. Gooseneck trailers often use one or two drop-leg jacks mounted at the front corners. Because these categories are not interchangeable, confirm the hitch type before comparing models.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I choose the right jack capacity?
Use the trailer’s tongue weight as the starting point, not the gross weight, and pick a jack with a rated capacity above it. If the number is not on the data plate, ask the trailer maker or weigh the tongue.
Is an electric jack worth it?
For heavier campers or owners with limited strength, many reviewers think so. Expect extra cost, wiring, and some motor noise. Keep a manual crank option in case of power loss.
What is a drop-leg jack?
It has an inner leg that you pull out and pin quickly near the ground, then use the screw drive for fine height. It saves time on heavy or tall trailers.
Can a jack be used to lift the whole trailer to change a tire?
Tongue jacks are made for lifting the tongue, not for supporting the full trailer. Follow the trailer manual and use rated axle jacks and stands for tire changes.
How do I maintain a manual jack?
Wipe the screw clean, apply the lubricant the maker names, and cycle it through its full travel. Unsealed gearboxes need attention more often in wet climates.
Should a boat trailer jack be aluminum?
Aluminum alloy resists rust, which helps with water exposure. Steel jacks can work if they are coated and rinsed regularly, but corrosion is the common failure mode.
